“Oh, it’s got an embedded TIFF of the actual content. That explains it.”
Yes, I am quite old now.
I’m a technical kinda guy, doing technical kinda stuff.
“Oh, it’s got an embedded TIFF of the actual content. That explains it.”
Yes, I am quite old now.
Bastard user from hell
Every IT/software group needs to have one, otherwise you get complacent.
Yeah it’s steadily getting enshittified.
I used to have a mythtv box that I’d built , like, 15 years ago and it was pretty good. For a while there TV UIs were adequate enough that I didn’t need it, but it seems that maybe it’s time to build another one.
TVs that do anything more than displaying a signal exactly as it’s input shouldn’t exist.
Some of that input could do with a bit of tweaking though.
I wouldn’t mind if the TV was able to do things with the audio track, like remove background music, or lift the volume of people speaking, or erase laugh tracks/live audience hooting& hollering.
There’s probably similar manipulation that you could do on the video side (eventually, once TVs stop getting the worst processors ever, not here and now). Imagine a prompt that says “Airbrush every recognisable brand name on-screen so that it blends with the background”.
I seriously doubt if any major manufacturer would do that kind of thing though, so better get working on jailbreaking those TVs.
Hm that certainly won’t help!
You can use a set of probes in series with a 100 watt incandescent bulb as a “poor man’s megger” to roughly check insulation. Of course everything needs to be appropriately insulated for this!
Remove the motor from the washing machine and place it on an insulating surface.
Put one probe from your light bulb on a motor terminal.
Put the other probe on the frame of the motor.
The bulb should not light up.
Repeat for various motor terminals in case there are different windings/etc.
They’d have more luck just using a real big cannon , at least that was attempted in the 60’s with Project HARP, with moderate success (180km altitude , prototype orbit circularisation system) before the project was cancelled.
Awesome! You are lucky, some of those devices don’t have a reset - they are just like a fuse and once they are blown they need replacing.
Good to hear it’s all working again, and at least now you know for next time!
There should be some basic protection for the element in case there is no water, because there’s a possibility that there would be no water , and there’s also a possibility that your dishwasher would catch fire if the element is turned on with no water.
So when you’re looking at the heater element, check that there isn’t a thermal fuse nearby and check that it hasn’t blown.
Possibly your new element will have it incorporated but maybe not.
Anything useful is still “unsafe.”
So you take care with the bits that have to deal with C, just like you have to with C code itself, and then all the rest of your code is still safe by default. Still a net improvement, yes?
If you occasionally boot to windows, it’s known to leave NICs in an unusable state if you just hibernate/quick power off. You need to boot back to windows and so a “proper” shutdown for it to come good.
Consider yourself corrected then. I’ve skimmed your comment history. Your go-to insult is “bootlicker” or alternatively, a simple clown emoji. In your comments you seem to provide very little context as to why you think that, it’s just, “I deem you to be a BOOTLICKER! Next!”
So maybe a little guidance for you:
The very, very, first thing you do when dealing with perceived propaganda - be it on mainstream media, online, or wherever - is to remove all the emotion and insults and see what’s left. You know what I see when I parse your comments like that? Very little.
Thus I conclude you have nothing of importance to say, and you become background noise that gets tuned out.
Actually your comments do have some small value. I check your bootlicker-comment-score and if it’s greater than 5, I know the community you posted in isn’t worth my time.
I think a gas company executive’s greatest fear is that one day, gas won’t be used for stuff.
Six levels deep in a teams group file storage and open a file to view? Clicking the big obvious “close” button on the top right of the opened document now takes you back to the top level. Enjoy digging back in again!
Oh, you really just want to close that document and remain in the folder you were just in? Well that’s easy. Just ignore that big tempting close button and click the tiny “<” button on the left, no problem. You’ll probably remember that after reflexively clicking that close button at least once, so enjoy all that!
Probably all the suburbs that have metered gas connections to each home.
Would explain all the generic, “Gas is used for stuff” advertising I’ve seen on tv lately. No further message than that. Gas industry trying to keep things rolling for them I guess.
It was a Sharp “Memory LCD”.
https://sharpdevices.com/memory-lcd/
Basically “visible memory storage”.
You treat it as addressable memory and write into it, and it will hold that state using about 15 microwatts to do so.
You can still buy the display modules , there’s a few boards that let you easily drive them with arduinos and etc.
“Akshually”, so do you. You had a chance to discuss and inform, and instead you went straight to “bootlicker”.
Do you think they’re going to take any notice of whatever you say from here on?
Samsung front loader washing machine here.
It is generally musical while selecting program options. It sings a little song when finished, which is only after it unlocks the door. The little song only plays once. The little song can be changed to other tunes by subtle and undocumented button presses.
After about 10 minutes it plays a few notes while turning itself off that are easily recognisable as the notes it plays when it turns itself off, so if you miss the first little song, once you hear that you know it’s definitely finished. After that it is done. No more door locking shenanigans or tumbling or clothes.
Generally I use the “sportswear” cycle which is about 1 hour, my clothes are generally not that dirty. Sometimes I treat towels / linen to a hot cotton cycle which is 2.5 hours and a 90 degree (Celsius) wash.
Had it for 10 years now, no mechanical or electrical issues. I always leave the door ajar when finished and once every few months I do a cleaning cycle.
I also have a Fisher and Paykel dryer. I have owned it for 8 years, in which time it has needed a replacement drive belt as it gets used heavily. The bushes on the drum need replacing soon, but I just turned it upside down so it will last for a while longer
Regarding your door issues, well that’s because idiots try and open the door during a load, and then when it’s locked, they turn it off and still try and open the door. They subsequently complain about the water going everywhere. Don’t forget that manufacturers have to deal with the lowest common denominator end user.
Possibly your motor is having an insulation breakdown when 220v is applied. Looks fine when testing with an ordinary multimeter and it’s low supply voltage.
So everything looks fine until it powers up and then you get a failure of the insulation on your motor windings, either failing to ground/frame or across windings in the motor. This flashover would likely fry whatever control components are in your main board, and it’s possible that your safety capacitor has a set of polyfuses in it that temporarily go high resistance when excess load is applied.
To check for an insulation breakdown you’d really need a megger which can apply 250/500v to the motor windings to check the leakage to ground/between windings.
It’s only one wire in the cable, and it’s not the wire, but it looks like the pin, or possibly the crimp point on the female pin.
So a few possibilities:
Bad pins. Female pins (sockets) have internal wipers that grip the male pin and there is also the crimp connection. Bad QA on those leads to hotspots in the pin under high current draw. I’d probably go for this explanation, looking at the photos.
Bad electrical layout on the card that means that the bulk of the current goes through this pin. Milliohms on the track traces are enough to cause imbalances. This might be balanced out by having a small-but-still-larger resistance in the (standard) cable, which leads to:
It looks like thicker cabling is soldered and heatshrinked to smaller cabling that actually goes into the pins in the connector. There’s a reason why industrial cable connections aren’t soldered. Possibly a solder connection on another cable has broken and hidden in the hearshrink leaving more current to pass through this one.
Following from this it’s also quite possible that the thicker cable with less resistance , now has less voltage drop across it, and simply allows more current then designed through a connection already at its limit.
It’s quite possible that there are different pins/connector sets for different current draws. This cable might be using the wrong connector with the same physical size but lower current rating. The fact that the cable has been soldered to skinnier wires in the actual connector suggests this, but it’s quite possible that the connector is the right one.