I had lost hope with my electric cooking plates. The white circles where completely hidden under a layer of diamond-grade burn residue that no amount of scrubbing with chemicals could even begin to remove. I found this 3€ scrapping tool and it’s amazing !!! Sorry, but I don’t have the before picture, believe me after 6 years of usage, it was bad.
A super thin layer of food safe oil. Apply it, Buff it back off as much as possible than wash the pan.
If it’s cast iron you can just re-season it.
just re-season it.
One does not “simply re-season.” Tbf it’s a pita.
Is it? I just throw it in the oven on high for a bit. Sometimes if I’m lazy I’ll just oil it and cook on high without seasoning. Just using it seasons it some. Even if the season is incomplete, just being oiled will prevent rust until next time and that seasoning builds up. Some people make a hobby of doing things the “right way” though, who am I to judge?
Idk, I gave away an almost new set of cast iron, but for the Dutch over and skillet. Skillet was preseasoned, used Dutch oven for deep frying/stews/casseroles, so it happened quickly enough. The rest of it wasn’t worth it since it’s heavy enough to be more hindrance and time than I actively used regularly.
Tl;dr mostly was for me
Fair enough! I wish I’d been there, free cast iron is the best cast iron.
Heck yeah! If I’d bought the set from a store or online, instead of a yard/estate sale, it would have been several hundred, minimum.
My most used, first and second favorite cast iron skillets are a no-brand $5 rusty garage sale find. A strip and reseason and these things are the best.
My third favorite is the $50 Lodge we got as a wedding gift.
No it’s not. 5 minutes of active work and 5 hours in the oven.
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The amount of oil on the surface that you need to stop rust is on the molecular level.
Do it, don’t do it, whatever suits you, That’s what I do and it works for me.
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I’m no materials scientist, just some guy on the internet who wants to make sure there isn’t a revolutionary idea missed in they throwaway comment.
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You sound fun lol
Hey idk what the person you’re replying to was trying to say but I can give clear detailed instructions for caring for different kinds of pans coming from years of cooking with them at home, in a restaurant and caring for different kinds of metals in a shop and at home:
Aluminum/enamel/ceramic ware: just wash it, it’s fine. Aluminum builds a thin layer of oxide that’s so hard it’s what used on some grinding wheels and enamel or ceramic and stoneware don’t need any surface protection aside from patching damage.
Steel: wash it normal, put a layer of food safe oil on the exposed metal parts, wipe the excess up. This will bear more washing without oiling the more it’s used and less washing without oiling the less its used. Commercial kitchens almost never season their steel cookware with oil because it gets used enough that it never really has enough chance to corrode. People who use woks are serious about seasoning too. Steel has surface irregularities that will hold oils unless very finely finished. Milling machine ways and jeweled gun parts are intended to make sure there’s lots of places for oil to stay
Cast iron: scrub off all the corrosion, coat with food safe oil that has a high smoke point, put in a hot oven for an hour or two. You’ll be able to tell the difference because the pan looked dark gray when you put it in and black when you take it out. The change in color is a polymerized film that’s bonded to the metal surface, preventing rust and handily making food not stick so bad. People will say you can’t use soap on pans like this because it will eat the coating away, but as long as you’re not using a caustic lye soap you’ll be fine. As long as you don’t scrub hard and cook something oily in the pan after you deglaze it a bunch of times it’ll be fine.