Hey guys, here’s my latest FW3A t1616 mod. This time with orange, pink, and warm white aux

Just look at that moonlight 👀

  • solrize@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Wait, what exactly has happened here? Did you replace the whole driver in the FWAA? Was it an existing 1616 board where you swapped the leds, or what? I had somehow thought the FWAA was not an Anduril light.

    • Adair21@lemmy.worldOPM
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      1 year ago

      This is the FW3A. I swapped the MCU on the driver from a t85 to t1616 with an adapter board that also has pads for RGB aux

      • solrize@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Aha nice, and presumably the adapter has flashing pads too. Very nice work, though I don’t understand why start with the FW3A to begin with. Sorry about the mixup with the FWAA.

        • Adair21@lemmy.worldOPM
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          1 year ago

          Yes it does, but you can only get to them when the driver is out.

          Because I love the FW3A 😂

  • containerfan@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    You guys are knocking it out of the park with these MCU swaps. You’d think Lumintop would catch on, but instead they are killing the FW platform. So unfortunate.

  • AItoothbrush@lemmy.zip
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    1 year ago

    Ahh yes the hidden recipe: warm white + some kind of pink or purple + a third colour. Always amazing.

  • zumlin@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Perfect soldering as expected. I can’t help it but my OCD has made me notice that you have the red and blue wires swapped on the aux board, not that it matters in this light.

    Also is that moonlight level? The lowest few levels acted weird before you disabled dynamic underclocking. I have been doing some experiments myself, with dynamic unclocking enabled and disabled. I ended up making a new smoother ramp while keeping it enabled.

    Btw, what happened to your anduril2 fork? It is no longer visible on GitHub, did you make it private?

    • Adair21@lemmy.worldOPM
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      1 year ago

      Thanks! And they’re not swapped. That’s the correct order.

      I disabled underclocking and set the default level to 3. 1 and 2 are very dim or don’t work at all depending on the Vf of the emitters.

      Yep, it’s currently private

      • zumlin@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        That’s the correct order

        Stupid me, you are right. I can’t tell “R” from “B” from the label on the actual board. I think I swapped all of mine on purpose because I wanted the sequence of colour change to go from outside to inside. Again, not that it matters, because none of mine are RGB lol.