There are actually a lot of devices that work this way and several of them can even be installed in the wall where a two or three gang switch box would be. Most run some flavor of android or an embedded os and cost ~$200-300. So like $700 cheaper than what Apple wants to do for something that takes up counter space.

Brilliant and Tuya both make them as well among better brands.

I have the Brilliant one plumbed into my HomeKit via a zigbee bridge and it’s perfect