This is very troubling, and I’m not even sure where to start. I recently received an email message from my ISP which alerted me to an incoming update. I didn’t worry too much since this is obviously not the first update they’ve ever pushed through.
However, after this update, I noticed that my guest connections and some other things had changed / disappeared. I logged on to my router, and I immediately noticed my custom password had been reset to the default. No problem, I entered it.
At this point, I saw that all of my options were greyed out. I could change the password, which I did, but nothing else. I immediately called my ISP.
I was told that I would have to use their app now, so as much as I dislike using proprietary phone apps, I conceded and installed the app through the Play store.
However, the agent was not entirely honest with me. I still can’t bifurcate my 2.4g and 5g connections, nor can I add or remove any guest connections. I immediately enabled “privacy mode” via the app, which purportedly prevents information from being collected by something called “HomePass,” and I “Delete[d] Guard events” whatever the hell that means, but this seems really troubling. I can no longer access my modem/router settings via the normal interface, but have to use an Android app?
There is only one other ISP in my area. They have much worse/slower service, but should I switch, or is this just the “new normal”? Does what I’m describing even make sense? I’m not a tech expert, but I feel like I’ve self-taught myself how to navigate these settings, and learned from others in online forums, but now … an Android app?
I’d appreciate any advice. I’d even be willing to purchase my own modem/router instead of using the one from my ISP, if that fixes this mess.
Edit: So I need my own router, at least. I did some research, and these are the ones I can get locally that are within my budget:
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TP-Link Archer AC1900 Dual-Band Mu-Mimo Wi-Fi Router with Gigabit Port
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Linksys AC1200 Dual Band WiFi 5 Router
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TP-Link Archer AX1500 WiFi 6 Dual-Band Wireless Router | up to 1.5 Gbps Speeds
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TP-Link Archer C54 | AC1200 MU-MIMO Dual-Band WiFi Router
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NETGEAR - Nighthawk AC1900 WiFi Router, 1.9Gbps (R6900) I’VE BEEN WARNED AGAINST NETGEAR THOUGH IN OTHER FORUMS
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TP-Link | AX1800 4 Stream Dual-Band WiFi 6 Wireless Router | up to 1.8 Gbps Speeds
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TP-Link Archer AX3000 | 4 Stream Dual-Band WiFi 6 Wireless Router | up to 3 Gbps Speeds
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Linksys E7350 AX1800 Wi-Fi 6 Wireless Router
Am I right in thinking the TP-Link AX3000 is best?
Edit 2: At first, I bought the Netgear AC1900, which seemed like a great deal. Turns out it was unusable without creating a netgear account, so I returned it in exchange for the TP-Link Archer AX1500, and it appears to be working! I got everything set up pretty close to the way it was before, except even better.
Once I save money, I’ll also invest in a different modem and return this one to my ISP.
This was a big wake-up call for me in terms of privacy. I never listened to people saying not to use your ISP’s equipment because I always trusted my ISP (it’s not one of the big name ones). Never trust a company. Lesson learned. I appreciate all the responses I got! This community is great!
So I just got off a chat with an agent who tells me if I provide my own equipment that I will be able to use the settings as normal and delete the phone app, but that I have to use one from their supported modem list.
I’m thinking about the Arris SBG8300.
Arris makes good stuff. But that is just the cable modem. It will NOT provide any router protection for your home network. Your network topology should look like this:
ISP -> your cable modem -> your router -> everything else
Honestly, if you don’t have need for many ethernet connections, just get a wifi router with good reviews and the arris cable modem. Make sure the cable modem you pick up has the right DOCSIS version for the speed you are getting or plan to upgrade to. Your ISP will be able to tell you what version they are on.
Except when they hardcode the challenge for logging into the admin console into their web frontend. To call the firmware code quality subpar would be an exaggeration.
Please forgive my ignorance, but this would need an additional wireless router? Isn’t it built into the device?
I do understand your flowchart, but it seems to me that this model covers both the modem and router aspects.
(To be clear, this might be my own ignorance. I do remember before they had modems with wireless built in, I would connect an additional wireless router, but I might be behind the times again.)
I would advise against a combo unit, what’s your provider, speed tier, and how much are you looking to spend? By the way, if you have a larger home/area you plan on covering, you’ll likely need to spend more.
So I’m not disclosing my provider’s name since I live in a sparsely populated area, and I try to avoid accidentally doxxing myself, but: https://librespeed.org/results/?id=085pib3
I could spend $50 - 100. Anymore than that, and I’d be scared of not making ends meet for the month.
I was mostly asking for the provider since they almost always have a small list of acceptable modems. Unless you can copy and paste the ones you know they’ll accept, it’ll be hard to know if they’ll allow it. Plus, buying a combo unit is usually a big mistake, as they tend to be garbage and overpriced. Buying separate sounds like extra steps, but from experience it’s the way to go.
Oh, I see! Here is the list. I don’t want to pressure you for advice, but if you have any, I’d sure like to hear it!
Thanks, so far the modems $59 for an Amazon Warehouse modem, which simply means the box is dinged up and they can’t sell it for $120 they usually ask.
ARRIS SURFboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem | Approved for Comcast Xfinity, Cox, Charter Spectrum, & more | Two 1 Gbps Ports | 1 Gbps Max Internet Speeds | 4 OFDM Channels | 2 Year Warranty,White https://a.co/d/ejElgmp
Give me a second to find a router, kids are driving me crazy lol. What’s the size of the home, 1,200sqft or 2,400sqft? If it’s smaller around 1,200sqft, that’ll make it easier for me to price hunt. Since the market for everything is sorta high right now, try remembering a router can cost $100 alone. 🙁 So anything cheap is cheap for a reason, so be wary.
Either way, buying the 2 devices separately is smarter and tends to be the way to go in these situations, and can last far longer than a combo device.
I actually just went and bought a TP-Link AX1500 lol
I move fast. Eventually I’ll be getting my own modem as well, but at least I got things close to how I had them before. In fact, seems even better!
Best of all, I’ve deleted that crazy app off my phone. I’m going to save your comment because then I’ll know which modem to get when I have more money!
I finally got my own modem – the SB8200 – so I finally feel like I’m free of the grasp of that horrible experience. Thanks for your help!
That would do both, but I wouldn’t buy that personally. Make’s troubleshooting a connection problem more difficult, and also if the device fails there’s two things you have to replace instead of just one. I’d go with a separate cable modem and router.
Personally i use Isp network - ISP router - cable - my own router wifi + cable
So ISP router only does wired communication and my own router handles all internal devices as well as wifi. That way you get more control at the cost of slightly more electricity.
I know you’re on a budget, but avoid Intel puma based modems. The raw specs look good, they’re the only 8x32 channel docsis 3.0, but they have a big that causes a serious jitter.
https://lookgadgets.com/articles/intel-puma-modems-list/
Personally, I have an Arris S33. The 8200 is good too, those are both docsis 3.1 and more future-ready but $150+. The 8300 you mentioned is an Intel puma, so maybe keep looking. You might be stuck with a 24 channel modem.
Bookmarking this for reference when I’m ready to buy a modem