There are some steps to do on the printer, but your print looks good enough so you can skip them.
For example, temp tower can be a hollow cube that you start printing at 210C and then decrease temp by 5 C every 10 mm of height. Dont go with too low temp to not cause a clog. Then you can inspect what height looks best and also you can try to brake it down with hands to see how good good layer adhesion is. Everything can be done in slicer. If you are using cura, there is preinstalled plugin called ChangeAtZ where you can set tenp change at specific height.
Flow calibration is simmilar, just change flow from 95% to 105% instead of temp.
Retraction test uses 2 pillars and you change retraction distance from 1-6 mm (for bowden) or 1-3 mm (for direct drive extruder). And you can see what height gives less stringing. You can also tune retraction speed.
Check links I posted before. You can download some tests or use whatever suits you
There are some steps to do on the printer, but your print looks good enough so you can skip them.
For example, temp tower can be a hollow cube that you start printing at 210C and then decrease temp by 5 C every 10 mm of height. Dont go with too low temp to not cause a clog. Then you can inspect what height looks best and also you can try to brake it down with hands to see how good good layer adhesion is. Everything can be done in slicer. If you are using cura, there is preinstalled plugin called ChangeAtZ where you can set tenp change at specific height.
Flow calibration is simmilar, just change flow from 95% to 105% instead of temp.
Retraction test uses 2 pillars and you change retraction distance from 1-6 mm (for bowden) or 1-3 mm (for direct drive extruder). And you can see what height gives less stringing. You can also tune retraction speed.
Check links I posted before. You can download some tests or use whatever suits you