I have a regular UPS for my server+NAS, and a small lithium one (pocket sized) for my low voltage things (basically all my network gear, sans POE). It was inexpensive and works fantastically. The best part was erasing 4 power brick transformers from my network closet and replacing them with just a 5V barrel cable directly to the UPS. I think it’s highest output is 12V which runs my 24-port switch (I think, maybe my router).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP

A LAN works without the Internet at all. CG-NAT is the internet for you. So anything LAN related is free of cg-nat restrictions.

DHCP could change your internal IP, so it’s nice to have static IPs sometimes.

they’re both AC1900 devices. so unless you can get the Asus to work in more of a mesh-mode where one of it’s antennas are dedicated to the upstream/backhaul side you won’t see improvement. NOW, if you can, say with DD-WRT (check your version: https://wiki.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC68U) then you should be able to get “full duplex” out of it as a repeater, because now it’s a mesh-node not a repeater.

That is pretty surprising isn’t it? I do feel it’s more complex than power wires, but not by much. And to be fair I’ve rewired a few ceiling fan/lights in my day or 2-switch light controls and the wording on those instructions makes ZERO sense. “be sure to attach the hot wire to the hot terminal on the fixture” … but the fixture has zero indicators to which side is hot/cold and is symmetric to the drawing. However, one plate is copper and the other is silver (in color), so there IS a difference but what is it? stupid engineers. Don’t say “hot/cold” or “+/-” for a device that can only be identified as “silver/copper”. :p

I recently finished my basement (~150sq.m. / 1500sq.ft.), I’m nerdy so be prepared. I bought a 300m spool of CAT6a, and ran about 13 drops.

I ran (myself) network to about every other power outlet, 1 stud away from the power. And one to my ceiling (central) for a WiFi access point. This is hands down the most important one for me. Super clean looking and powerful WiFi. I also included power and network in 3 closets (never know where I’ll want my NAS) and to the outside corners directly into weather resistant junction boxes so no wire is exposed (cameras). Each of the 3 rooms got 2 (opposing corners), the kitchen, all along the main room wall, and to a built in bookshelf that has become my TV cabinet (receiver/amp + Nvidia Shield feeding to a projector in the main room).

I did not bother with 2 runs everywhere because switches are just too easy and/or WiFi. Heck a basic switch can even be powered over POE so minimal wiring needed. And everything runs back to a “structured media cabinet” housing my fiber-ONT (so I had the ISP move my fiber here), router, switches, and network patch panels for the whole house. Ask the electrician (a low voltage kind) to “terminate to an Ethernet patch panel” so it’s easier for you to use. Also demand that they do NOT staple the wires, and test each for at minimum perfect 1 gigabit performance, probably 10Gb at these ranges.

Is your subnet /16? Really just < /22 I think

If the alternatives are still fiber, I’d suggest 50 min 100 max, save your money. Fiber is important because of outbound speeds (upload), and with fiber it’s generally a match to your download. Where coax (from the TV company) is about a 10% upload ratio to your download. Upload affects a ton that people don’t realize. Backing up your phone photos, video calls (your image is better), voice over WiFi (VoIP). 25 Mbps is totally fine for streaming (15-29Mbps for 4k) or gaming (game downloads take longer, but game play only needs like 1-2Mbos).

If those things don’t matter, then the only thing left is gaming. If you play online then ping/lag/latency should be your #1 concern, not download. The best way to assess this is to maybe ask any neighbors you bump into that you think might game. Do the “hey, I need to choose my Internet. Who do you have and how is it here?”.

Lastly. Don’t lock into a contract if you have multiple vendors if you can avoid it. This lets you flip flop if desired. Be like “I only need it for 2 months unless I get extended, and the other company waived the termination fee because I’m a nurse and might have to move soon again”

All this said. I’d recommend a switch that can VLAN and POE. I’m never buying anything non-POE again.

I know a basic ‘dumb’ switch can’t handle VLAN tags being passed through it, but something like the TP-Link ‘smart’ unmanaged switch (TL-SG108E) might allow it. It’s fanless and supports VLANs at least by physical separation and 802.1Q support.

According to ChatGPT:
Yes, the TP-Link TL-SG108E is a managed switch, and it supports VLAN functionality. This means that it can handle VLAN tagging and pass VLAN-tagged frames through its ports.
If you have an access point or any other device upstream that is tagging its frames with VLAN information, and you connect it to one of the ports on the TP-Link TL-SG108E, the switch should be able to pass those VLAN-tagged frames through to other devices on the network, provided that the other devices and the switch are properly configured to handle VLANs.
Keep in mind that for VLANs to work correctly, all the devices involved, including the switch and the devices connected to it, must be configured consistently with regard to VLAN settings. If you need to segregate network traffic using VLANs, you’ll need to configure the TP-Link TL-SG108E accordingly, specifying which ports are members of which VLANs. Additionally, the connected devices, such as the access point, should be configured to tag their frames with the appropriate VLAN identifiers.

You’ll be happy with either I think. I run Omada and it’s great for my home use. It was also less expensive and didn’t have supply chain issues when I was searching. Today, I’m not sure but I have seen many complaining anymore that UniFi just isn’t available. So I’m guessing they fixed that problem.

My argument. If the cable is permanently installed, put a keystone on it and afix it security. They are more robust this way as cable tweaking isn’t an issue now that it’s fixed in place. Then, patch cables from there. Cheap, easily replaced, disposable. While keeping the permanently installed wire unharmed from wear.

Huh!? I’ll personally need a use case that justifies spending more than $50 USD on a wired only router (ER605 for examples), vs. building my own or going full send into commercial or something like a firewalla gold.

Also why are you using a router to act as an Access Point. Just use an access point to get better results and save a tonne of $$$.

Single, two bedroom, at 18??? Sweet! Firstly, sweet! Hopefully that PS5 will get less and less use as your badass setup occupies your social time more and more.

I digress.

If you’re not concerned with waiting a little extra time to download a new game, 50Mbps and 500Mbps are the same experience for you. Give a list of all your local ISPs and their offers. Then do NOT get upsold to a speed you don’t need

Prioritize a fiber optic provider if you have a choice. I recently switched from cable and my ping/lag/latency on fiber is reliably 3ms. On Coax/modem it was more like 15ms. Still, first world lag, but it is noticable (and I don’t game anymore, just surfing use more responsive)

I feel like you’re interested, but nervous about, going with a little bit more powerful of a home setup. Would that be true? If yes, I’ll take the time to not just say “get a 3 node deco unit on sale right now. Hardwire basement+main to each other and stick the third in good proximity to the main, but on the top floor. Then look into setting your DHCP to tell all clients to use AdGuard as their DNS host (family filter version). And lastly, tell the deco to offer a guest network that is isolated and point your IOT stuff to that”.

Do you want the uber-solution, or you’re happy with the consumer version?

Looks tight. I absolutely adore those cables. Amazingly flexible, clean, and fast.

Your 4k stream is 4-5 times better than anything Netflix will push out. :)

1. Modem >>> ROUTER first. United the modem in your diagram is a router combo unit.

2. I need to read more about your post in a bit.

You get good signal outside the shop, or with the doors open. If you’ve got an old WiFi router sitting around I would use that as your “repeater” … Kinda.

Personally. I’d hack together something fun, partially for fun, partially for cost savings. Mostly for the fun though.

Old router outside the shop, in a plastic junction box with a hole drilled into the shop where you connect a low cost access point. Place the old router into “media bridge” mode so it basically just receives WiFi and outputs wired to that access point inside that is then your new WiFi.

Parts needed: wireless router (AC is probably plenty and you probably know someone with a spare for free), plastic junction box to hold it, wireless access point (WAP).

forget the word “modem”, that’s just for cable internet from coax to traditional ethernet. Fiber uses (same idea) an ONT to convert the optical signal to ethernet.

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As for using your own gear, what you’re looking to do is get the AT&T ONT box (which is also a router and wireless access point) into “IP passthrough mode”. This should be very easy once you know the model of the ONT they supply to you. Now, plug your own router (I assume a standard wireless router) to have full control just like you had with Spectrum.

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You might need to disable the ONT/Router’s Wireless features if they don’t turn off with the mode-change.

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Note that the “first” device you plug in after switching it to IP-Passthrough is the device that will receive the public IP. So. I’d suggest you wire up as your final wiring will be before making that switch. Then just unplug your router from it and plug it back in for your router to receive a new IP (the public one).

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Annoyingly, my AT&T ONT-Router was using the standard/common home IP range and was at http://192.168.1.254/. I say annoyingly because you might not be able to access it if you’re behind your own router with the same 192.168.1.??? IP range. This is most easily fixed by changing yours to 192.168.0.??? (myself I like 10.0.0.??? == 10.0.0.0/24), but you can change the ONT-Router one if desired too.

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Final Wiring for 99.9% of consumers using IP Passthrough mode: ONT >> Wireless Router >> home devices

I did similar, but I got a DC UPS and it’s running: 2 Odroids (like Raspberry pi), a wired router, and a 16 port switch. (edit: as seen here https://ibb.co/album/Jxrb06 )

TalentCell Mini UPS Uninterrupted… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share