That’s a great idea. See if you can interact with it at all. Printrun is another option if you don’t want to set up Octoprint.

Thanks for checking. I thought maybe it was my choice of theming or some weird state I’ve confused the app in, so I cleared the data in the app but the problem persists.

Yup, you’re right, good catch 🙂

You need to report two numbers for a classifier, though. I can create a classifier that catches all cases of autism just by saying that everybody has autism. You also need a false positive rate.

Depends on where you live. I live in a desert where the humidity is often <10% and have left PETG and PLA rolls out for several weeks at a time with no issues. With nylons I’ve been a bit more careful, though I’m not sure I need to be.

What kind of climate do you live in?

Prusa machines come with phenomenal support, why not consult them directly?

+1 for Voron. I just finished up mine and am pleased with the results. Totally open source, modifiable, and unlike Prusa machines not based on a 5-year old design. (This is coming from somebody who loves the MK3S+ but was very disappointed with the MK4’s marginal improvement and botch-job of a lunch)

That is an incredibly overgeneralized view of the situation. It’s precisely this kind of polarization, and viewing everything in terms of black and white, that Putin and allies are reveling in.

Of course! link

Yup, totally. Klicky as a concept is great, but the original design was just bad. The Klicky parts I had were from a PIF provider, so I’m confident it wasn’t a bad print job. Maybe Klicky NG fixes the issue, but to me the PCB is worth it.

Thanks!

I have to do a fine babystep here and there, but nothing major. I think it’s mostly because I haven’t done an actual offset calibration since changing to Klicky PCB, just kind of eyeballed it with a piece of paper.

Do you have the calibrate_z macro?

Edit: Moonraker says I’ve got 130 hours on it already. More than I thought!

Nice! I’m looking for a label maker for a similar setup. What do you recommend?

If you have a hardened nozzle and brass brush, it shouldn’t be too abrasive. I’ve usually done that with my MK3S+ and never had issues.

On the cable, have you considered hot glue?

I have not, what a marvelous idea! Thanks!

With regard to Klicky, yup, I can get it to go through the whole QGL/bed mesh/Z-calibration process and get off a print I’d estimate about 50% of the time. It’s mostly just consistency. I can probably increase the tolerances in printer.cfg, but I figure the defaults are what they are for a reason. I had trouble with assembling Klicky due to tolerances of the printed parts, and some of my magnets weren’t perfectly flush. I suspect (hope) this is causing some wobbles in the probe itself.

Two different problems. First with y endstop, and not really an issue with the endstop, more the cables. They keep wiggling out of the nook you’re supposed to stuff them into, and that causes them to get pinched when homing. The cable is just thick enough that it prevents the endstop from triggering.

The other is Klicky, I get wildly different readings to the point where it just gives up because the tolerance was exceeded too many times. I’ve checked for loose screws, belt tension, etc., can’t find anything obvious. I’ve basically given up on Klicky and ordered a Klicky PCB kit, hopefully that will fix it.

That’s my guess with the 3kg, too. Probably need a holder with bearings. I plan on printing this holder (https://www.printables.com/model/513779-voron-horizontal-filament-spool-holder-w-608-beari) because I need something a little more forward based, I’ll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

Yup, still much to do on mine too. Bed clips, skirts, fans, led mounts, camera mounts… It’s fun to tinker some, but I’ll be glad when it’s all calibrated and ready to print reliably. I’ve got some issues here and there with endstops I need to figure out.

It’s a Voron 2.4r2! Bed size is 350mm square. I built it from the LDO motors kit. You can find them lots of places. Here’s a link to LDO resellers (https://docs.ldomotors.com/voron/LDO_Voron_Distributors). There are other kit options, too, including West3D and Fysetc.

Nice! Too bad they don’t make transparent cardboard 😂

Thanks! I agree, the wiring actually seems like one of the easiest things.