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I am stuck with very sticky wifi clients. So I do find “mesh” with 802.11 v/k/r and a network controller does help devices roam although all roaming is supposed to be initiated client side.
What is your internet package speed supposed to be?
I am stuck with very sticky wifi clients. So I do find “mesh” with 802.11 v/k/r and a network controller does help devices roam although all roaming is supposed to be initiated client side.
What is your internet package speed supposed to be?
Could be a damaged cat cable.
Its also possibe the ends have been terminated differently.
Doing an A termination on one end and a B termination on the other end will lead to this behavior.
Is the easy band switch on the asus set to full band?
I woud assume its mps otherwise.
Could be the other way for the frequency switch if the screenbeems default to dosis compatible.
With wired backhaul there are less options. What are you currently using as your wifi access point?
It really depends on what your client devices are/ how many clients you have.
Not many clients support 4x4 mimo or 160 mhz channels widths (the main difference between the xt4’s and the ax86u) I also can not confirm if those fesrures would work with ai mesh. To get better signal outside i would add another access point there rather than teybto upgrade inside.
Paying for a mesh system with a extra backhaul band that can only be used for backhaul like the pre wifi 6e orbis is a waste of money. As for what hardware to recommend it depends on your plan speeds, devices you are connecting and if you need a faster lan connection.
I am useing deco x20’s in wired backhaul and (dual band access points) performance is peitty good (maxes out my 300mbps plan) and they are easy to setup. They are missing features like vap and vlan tagging compared to a more prosumer setup.
There are passive hdmi to ethernet adptors. I am assuming you can use them in reverse and get ethernet over the cables I would assume all pairs are connected.
We installed one at woek for hdmi but never checked to see if it used all 8 pairs.
https://www.milestek.com/p-16217-hdmi-over-cat5ecat6-extender-balun-passive
This lookes really expensive the set we used was super cheep and had female hdmi for wallplates.
The download looks amazing. The upload is where the issues are happening.
I had a vdsl line that looked like this and i had to qos it down to about 50% of the line speed to get a stable connection as the line itself was the issue.
I would run a few speedtests from a few different devices ookla and the like to get a better picture of if ypu are actually using the faster speeds.
T-mobiles home internet is likely over gsm. I have herd good things about that but I would look at your current provider to see if they have cheeper plans. Before making the switch to t-mobile.
However as much as the other person was downvoted. I would doubt that you would notice much of a difference having a 100mbps internet package with your usage. That $50/ month is pritty significant.
I’m in canada we have 3 main possibilities for wireing to the house.
True ftth/fttp with symmetrical plans up to 10gb usally 1.5gbps/1gbps is the max offerd in most areas with this technology.
Coax cable with plans up to 1.2gbps but uploads of 50mbps
And bonded vdsl 100/10 max the company markets that as “fibe” as it is fttn/fttc but uses phone likes from the box to the house.
Your plan honestly sounds more like g.fast as I know the uk had a limited roll out of that. Fttc/fttn with a short copper phone line run to the house. With speeds technically up to 1gbps.
This really dosent matter though.
I think I worded the question about powerline wrong.
The adptors would likely need to be on the same ring or a spur from that ring for best performance. I don’t know how big the hit is going cross rings as we don’t use ring wireing here.
I’ve seen g vector referd to this itu.
https://www.itu.int/rec/T-REC-G.993.5
So if a modem supports that it should be gvector compatible.
In my quick searches. I’ve come up with this.
https://www.zyxelguard.com/VMG4005-B50B.asp
This will need a separate router. Essentially any wifi ac router will work as vdsl tops out at like 300mbps with 35b
You may just be able to buy your exact model of modem off of ebay to be honest as well.
It is hard to recommend something without knowing what exact vdsl profiles they use
1 port mach speed and warp meet sound like marketing terms and not a actual spec.
I do see some devices marketed with g vector but thst also sounds like a marketing term for vectoring.
Sorry for not being able to provide a clear answer.
Does your isp support 3rd party modems?
I would assume so if you are asking.
Are you fine with having 2 devices in the area where this dsl modem needs to be?
https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/2479/
Try this option both ways and see if one works and one is flakey.
That is the only thing I can think of.
This is spot on. Freah tomato is another wrt option.
And that 54mbps is max theoretically usally you get about 70% real world and as you want it as a repeter split that connection in 1/2
The rt1800 can be flashed with open wrt giveing you alot of control
https://openwrt.org/toh/hwdata/belkin/belkin_rt1800_v1
However it seems your spectrum device is 4x4 mimo vs the belken 2x2.
https://fccid.io/VW3FAST5285/Test-Report/Test-Report-5GB1-B4-4851412#google_vignette
So aside from the improved control it would be a multi client wifi performance downgrade.
The belken should beable to nat you connection. So the main difference is control or extra wifi bandwidth between multiple devices.
As the other commenter said the upload speed is suspect for fiber but that doesn’t really matter.
That TP-Link WDR3600 is a wireless n only router best case on wifi you are looking at only 100-150 mbps.
And I don’t have a good sample of nat performance but it seems to be only arround 100mbps on a basic gargoyle install.
https://www.gargoyle-router.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=9029
Where you using powerline on the TP-Link TL-WPA7617?
I don’t know how advanced you rules in gargoyle are and that will limit your device selection.
If doing powerlinr i would recommend just using a normal powerline ethernet bridge and then connecting a ap to that.
The broken tplink is likely under warranty, my experience with tplink warranty was pritty good.
And finally do you have any coax lines or ethernet lines ran in your house?
If those jacks allready exzist they likely run to one central place in the house (unless this is converted phone line).
You will likely need to connect thise two cables at the centrual point. (Or put a switch there and connect up the rest of the house as well.)
We generally recommend lv techs instead of electricians as data cabling is slightly different than electrical.
Moca sounds like the best option in this situation along side a mesh system.
Some other users here have written very helpful guides stealing https://www.reddit.com/user/plooger/ 's link
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/15ick7f/comment/jutk8bi/
I have x20’s seems that the 2.4 ghz band is cutback on the x10’s my x20’s are hard wired so I can’t say how they work as a mesh.
As you are using wireless backhaul I feel like the ax 3000 devices would be most useful but you also only have a plan speend of 50mbps. So evey oprion should saturate it if placed properly.