Look at UniFi consoles and the UniFi line.

Read r/Ubiquiti subreddit.

What are your main goals here? Is it largely to have a very stable high speed WiFi network, and hardwired security cameras?

Could I get away with this?

ISP coax --> ISP’s modem --> (need a router recommendation) --> random POE switch with enough ports to support all my gear? I might also add a UPS and surge protector.

Yes. Specific router recommendations will depend largely on your ISP speed. Your existing Google mesh router is likely sufficient. (not sure which unit you have exactly)

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Practically speaking, how would I initially configure/set up everything if I piece meal it together with various OEM gear? Let’s say ISP modem (should I get my own?), TPlink router, Netgear POE switch? Sorry if that’s a dumb question.

ISP modem is fine. Buying your own will likely save you money in less than a year, but you lose some of the “it is the ISP’s problem to fix” if things go wrong. That being said, it is rarely the modem that goes wrong. Really, any modem compatible with your ISP’s service would be fine here.

TPLink router. These, or really any consumer router would likely be fine. Again, it depends on how fast your ISP service is which model you’d need specifically. Also again, your existing Google mesh equipment is likely sufficient. Consumer level stuff will basically configure itself. It sounds like you’ve already configured your mesh system. It won’t be much different here.

Netgear POE switch. Totally fine. This shouldn’t need any configuration at all. You can get a managed switch and configure all sorts of things, but there’s likely little benefit to you to doing so and you’d need to get a router that supports VLANs and such to go with that.

Similarly, how much more difficult/easy would a similar Unifi solution be?

I can’t comment on this. I’ve never messed with Unifi gear.

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Overall, don’t overthink it. Modem plugs into router WAN port. Switch plugs into router LAN port. Everything else plugs into the other switch ports. Make sure you plug each of your mesh APs into the switch as well and configure them as hardwired units instead of using wireless backhaul.

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You can do this.

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Edit: formatting

Hire someone/a company who is skilled at low voltage wiring.

I could theoretically have done all of it myself, terminating the cables really isn’t that difficult. I got the equipment and set the equipment up. But I did not run the actual wires, and watching them do it. I know my strengths, they saved me days worth of work. And I wouldn’t have done as good or clean of a job. They should be able to help you with AP placement as well.

A good rule of thumb is, everything that can be hardwired is hard wired. If you think you will need more ports, add them now. If you need. 2 ports at a location, make it 4 or 5. Now is the time to do it. Run fiber to the locations that will require the opening of walls should you need to run more lines. If you are setting up an out door AP or location, run fiber to the exterior wall, connect it to a switch, then use the switch to connect it the device to the network.

I would go with a full unifi stack for the hardware, I think it’s the best bang for the buck hardware for this purpose. If you hire an A/V company, they may want to use Araknis, because of your home automation and Sonos, but I have no experience with it.

Make sure the network closet has adequate ventilation.

All your runs come to a patch panel. You want cat 6 or Cat6A depending on home size. pure Bare copper. If anyone recommends CCA, ignore them and find another contractor. A good UPS is a must.

So, first things first. I’ve never had a house built but I can tell you I’ve already planned my house build (when I’m ready) and already have decided how I’m running my low-voltage when that time comes.

As many have said, run Cat6 EVERYWHERE and have it all terminate at ONE location. If you need a data connection to the TV, run 2 instead of 1. Always pull +1 for every run. This way you’re covered if you need to add something, or if a run fails down the road. I find this to be especially true for IP cameras and access points.

Switching away from consumer-grade (mesh) gear was the best decision I have ever made years ago. I’m running a Ubiquiti UDM-Pro, an 8-port PoE switch, and 2 Wi-Fi 6 Lite APs. The only change I would have made is changing the 2 Lite’s for a U6-Enterprise, but it wasn’t available when I bought the Lites. My Ubiquiti gear simply runs itself after my initial setup and I’ve never had things just stop working. Anyone with any idea of how networking gear works will be just fine with Ubiquiti gear.

In terms of your cameras- I don’t have personal experience with the Ubiquiti line, but I know you can’t use a NVR(-PRO) with non-Ubiquiti cameras. So, decide what you want to do there. I think there are advantages and disadvantages to both. Reolink seems to have a decent line and they’re way cheaper. I think having a dedicated system with the same brand is going to be better than trying to piece that together randomly, unless you want to go down the rabbit hole of Blue Iris (essentially a powerful NVR you can run on Windows) or something similar.

One thing to mention, I run Home Assistant for automation and one of the main reasons I do that is to consolidate all of the different brands, manufacturers, etc into one. The same goes for networking gear and cameras/security. With that said, I think it would be easier on you to stick with Ubiquiti for both networking and cameras.

Some side notes…

You can always add a switch to the end of a Cat6 drop if you need to. Meaning, run 2 drops to the living room (one to use, one for backup) and then have an 8-port switch to plug the rest of the stuff into (TV, soundbar (Sonos?), Apple TV/streaming device, game console, media PC, etc).

Have you given any thought to having “smart” blinds, or door/window sensors? PIR sensors for occupancy or lighting? If so, you’ll want to run some Cat6 for these things too. Even if they don’t directly take an Ethernet connection, you can use the pairs inside the wire as multi-purpose in a lot of low-voltage situations.

Remember- hardwired is better.

Oh, and lastly, I work for a major US wireless telecommunications company. People complain about Wi-Fi calling 24/7 and the simple fact of the matter is that most people just have a crappy home network which can’t offer them a good Wi-Fi calling experience. So keep that in mind too, you want strong Wi-Fi signals. That said, if you haven’t already, Ubiquiti has a network design tool where you can upload your floorplan(s) and place access points to find which AP would be better and determine the best coverage based on where you place them.

I know that was a lot. Best of luck. If you have more questions, or want real-world answers, hit me. I love talking tech.

Check out my prewire guide. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask :)

When you say “I’m building a house” what does that actually mean?

If you are using one of the large builders you have some obstacles that will likely preclude you from achieving your goals.

If you have a builder constructing your home on the property you own, speak with your builder. He likely has experience with a low voltage company that can set you up with what you need and will know how to work with the builder wo conflict.

I have a much smaller home than you (about 2000 sqft over two stories) and recently upgraded, went with ubiquiti. The thing that pushed me that way is that it’s pretty turn key. I can configure the hell out of it and do all the fancy stuff I want, but I can also set specific rules for different kinds of traffic, including blocking certain sites and countries. Some other routers you can do the same and that’s fine, but I wanted some customization, but also something simple that the wife can muck with if necessary. The other reason was that adding cameras in the future is as simple as adding a wire, it all runs through the same console. And, of course, that I own the footage and that it’s not on some other company’s servers, they won’t give it to cops without my permission… all that good stuff.

If you do decide to go that route, everyone pushes for the ceiling mounted APs, but don’t sleep on the U6 In-Wall units. They look nice, are built well, and have the bonus of a built in four port switch with the first port being PoE if you need it.

If you get bored, you can create a free account on their site and upload your floor plan to place APs and see what will work. It’s not too hard to just try out and see what sort of cost you’d be looking at.

The Unifi access points are awesome and can be powered by PoE. I would pick a few good locations, one centerally in the house and one on each end of your house to mount ceiling access points. I would go Unifi for the router (aka the gateway), switch and access points. You could use Unifi also for the cameras, but just know that their NVR does not work with non-Unifi cameras which was a deal breaker for me. I got Vivotek cameras and NVR instead.

I would get the following:

• Unifi USG Lite
• Unifi 24 port PoE switch
• Unifi access points x3
• Unifi cloud key (stores the configuration)
• Many NVRs have PoE ports built in so you don’t need to connect the cameras to the main switch

Tips:

• Run a CAT6 line to the doorbell for a PoE doorbell camera
• Run 2x CAT6 to the outside near utilities. I switched from coax to fiber and was able to install the ONT (optical network transceiver) outside thanks to these two wires. One is for powering the ONT and the other is for data.
• Ceiling mount access points look best in my opinion
• Run a spare CAT6 line to the attic for future use such as additional cameras or access points
• If you have a basement run a length of wide conduit between the basement and attic for future wire pulls
• Adding a monitor to your NVR in the server rack is nice to see the cameras
• If you are wiring speakers request 12awg stranded copper speaker wire

As for bringing your own modem many ISPs won’t let you anymore. Most likely you will have to use their modem/router and then connect your router to theirs. The Unifi setup is straightforward enough if you watch some videos, no need to get into VLANs or multiple subnets or anything complex.

Okay, you seem right on the line between Ubiquiti and something more “consumer” grade. What internet speeds will you have?

One thing I’ll promise you want to do is to chuck the Google Wifi :)

Based on the research you’ve done and the career, I don’t think you should be intimidated by a Unifi setup. We did one second home piecemeal and the biggest frustration is the endless apps that we have to use… door locks, remember to open Yale, front door, open Ring, switches - different app, audio - Sonos.

I would decide on your chosen ecosystem and then back into your wifi. Things like door locks, Sonos, etc. are going to be picked based on aesthetic and what you’re used to, so it really just comes down to the cameras from what you’ve shared.

If you really want plug and play just works wifi that can POE, the Eero POE gateway is an option but then you’re locked into their APs which lack something like an outdoor AP you might want (Unifi easily could, or could add an in Wall AP when you find a dead spot). I would reallly recommend picking one ecosystem for your wifi even if you don’t want to customize now. It’s just better

If you’re looking into security. Make sure to run Ethernet to for corners of your sofets. Ethernet into your garage for either for a camera along with ap for iot garage opener. Even if the cameras you decide to running are wireless you can get a PoE adapter to convert to usb port to power the camera.

I would concentrate more on the wiring right now. As long as you do that well you can set up different systems as the need arises. Put it in a rack that has room for more device later, with ventilation.

For better configuration abilities you need better hardware. If you dont need to set up different vlans or networks you dont need the expensive stuff.

If you decide you need more options you can upgrade the hardware later. Just make sure you get hardware that supports gigabit speeds or better.

Amazing that the networking layout for a house that would cost $750,000 in my market is being done by the owner. There’s cheap, and then there’s CHEAP.

For each room, cut paper into shaped for various furniture. For example, cut out a bed, dresser, and nightstand for bedrooms. With various configurations, it will then become obvious where cable and network ports are best located.

For example, doing so will make obvious where furniture cannot be so that doors can swing and window access exists.

Also install some plastic pipes, for example, between basement and attic. So that future low voltage wires are easily installed for features we do not yet know we need.

Dedicate a location for all communication, network, and security hardware. With enough AC plugs to power those devices. Bringing all wires to a common point (with a large plywood sheet on that wall for mounting) makes upgrades and debugging much simpler.

AC wired in a manner so that a future generator or power wall can power only items that must always have power.

All incoming TV, network, etc wires must enter a structure at one service entrance. So that all share same earth ground electrodes with AC electric.

Ufer grounds (using rebar) should be installed when footing are poured. Essential for all low voltage cabling.