I had lost hope with my electric cooking plates. The white circles where completely hidden under a layer of diamond-grade burn residue that no amount of scrubbing with chemicals could even begin to remove. I found this 3€ scrapping tool and it’s amazing !!! Sorry, but I don’t have the before picture, believe me after 6 years of usage, it was bad.

  • linearchaos@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    This is the absolute proper tool for this job.

    That said, everyone should know the different ways of cleaning the things.

    Bar keepers Friend, for the equivalent oxalic acid/ddbsa cleaner in your area will remove dark carbon from most surfaces, especially when used with a magic eraser/melamine sponge

    If you have a pot or a pan or something movable that is very burnt on, soaking it in an extremely dangerous solution of potassium hydroxide (lye) well absolutely remove all the organics. You just have to be sure to wear gloves and splash protection because it will blind you in a hot second.

    Soaking rusty items in vinegar for a prolonged period of time will remove the rust, but you’ll have to treat it pretty quickly to keep the rusr from coming back.

        • linearchaos@lemmy.world
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          1 year ago

          Yeah that actually is another good point to it if you use it on aluminum it will erode the surface. If my quarter sheet pans get out of control I’ll do it to them a couple of times and sand them back down before I recycle them.

      • TonyTonyChopper@mander.xyz
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        1 year ago

        yes, don’t fuck around with corrosive chemicals. Strong acids or bases will destroy tissues with ease, especially if they’re not protected by skin (which also gets dissolved but more slowly)

      • linearchaos@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        A super thin layer of food safe oil. Apply it, Buff it back off as much as possible than wash the pan.

        If it’s cast iron you can just re-season it.

        • Maeve@kbin.social
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          1 year ago

          just re-season it.

          One does not “simply re-season.” Tbf it’s a pita.

          • JungleJim@sh.itjust.works
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            1 year ago

            Is it? I just throw it in the oven on high for a bit. Sometimes if I’m lazy I’ll just oil it and cook on high without seasoning. Just using it seasons it some. Even if the season is incomplete, just being oiled will prevent rust until next time and that seasoning builds up. Some people make a hobby of doing things the “right way” though, who am I to judge?

            • Maeve@kbin.social
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              1 year ago

              Idk, I gave away an almost new set of cast iron, but for the Dutch over and skillet. Skillet was preseasoned, used Dutch oven for deep frying/stews/casseroles, so it happened quickly enough. The rest of it wasn’t worth it since it’s heavy enough to be more hindrance and time than I actively used regularly.

              Tl;dr mostly was for me

                • Maeve@kbin.social
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                  1 year ago

                  Heck yeah! If I’d bought the set from a store or online, instead of a yard/estate sale, it would have been several hundred, minimum.

                  • model_tar_gz@lemmy.world
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                    1 year ago

                    My most used, first and second favorite cast iron skillets are a no-brand $5 rusty garage sale find. A strip and reseason and these things are the best.

                    My third favorite is the $50 Lodge we got as a wedding gift.

          • linearchaos@lemmy.world
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            1 year ago

            The amount of oil on the surface that you need to stop rust is on the molecular level.

            Do it, don’t do it, whatever suits you, That’s what I do and it works for me.

              • modifier@lemmy.ca
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                1 year ago

                house uses bacon grease as dish soap.

                I’m no materials scientist, just some guy on the internet who wants to make sure there isn’t a revolutionary idea missed in they throwaway comment.

              • gayhitler420
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                1 year ago

                Hey idk what the person you’re replying to was trying to say but I can give clear detailed instructions for caring for different kinds of pans coming from years of cooking with them at home, in a restaurant and caring for different kinds of metals in a shop and at home:

                Aluminum/enamel/ceramic ware: just wash it, it’s fine. Aluminum builds a thin layer of oxide that’s so hard it’s what used on some grinding wheels and enamel or ceramic and stoneware don’t need any surface protection aside from patching damage.

                Steel: wash it normal, put a layer of food safe oil on the exposed metal parts, wipe the excess up. This will bear more washing without oiling the more it’s used and less washing without oiling the less its used. Commercial kitchens almost never season their steel cookware with oil because it gets used enough that it never really has enough chance to corrode. People who use woks are serious about seasoning too. Steel has surface irregularities that will hold oils unless very finely finished. Milling machine ways and jeweled gun parts are intended to make sure there’s lots of places for oil to stay

                Cast iron: scrub off all the corrosion, coat with food safe oil that has a high smoke point, put in a hot oven for an hour or two. You’ll be able to tell the difference because the pan looked dark gray when you put it in and black when you take it out. The change in color is a polymerized film that’s bonded to the metal surface, preventing rust and handily making food not stick so bad. People will say you can’t use soap on pans like this because it will eat the coating away, but as long as you’re not using a caustic lye soap you’ll be fine. As long as you don’t scrub hard and cook something oily in the pan after you deglaze it a bunch of times it’ll be fine.

    • SuzyQ@sh.itjust.works
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      1 year ago

      Bar keepers Friend, for the equivalent oxalic acid/ddbsa cleaner in your area will remove dark carbon from most surfaces, especially when used with a magic eraser/melamine sponge

      I had no idea! Thank you! I keep this to clean my ceramic cast iron sink but had no idea that I could use this on my glass top stove and the burnt bottom of my pans!

    • pete_the_cat@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I used vinegar to get the rust off of a bunch of (Pogs) Slammers that had gotten wet in my parents basement. It worked reasonably well on most of them.

      • linearchaos@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        If we’re not talking about food safe applications crc evaporust is absolutely magical. But it will leave the surface dark which you then would need to buff back off.

          • piecat@lemmy.world
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            1 year ago

            Honest question, why?

            The material safety data sheet really doesn’t indicate toxicity. It’s not a carcinogen or mutagen (even in California)

            The marketing material on their website shows a cast iron pan

            • KnightontheSun@lemmy.world
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              1 year ago

              Okay, I will admit I might be wrong on that. The ingredients are proprietary, so I guess we have to trust their docs and the MSDS here.

    • LillyPip@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      Barkeeper’s Friend is a miracle, but people should know it’s incredibly abrasive and can debride enamelware. I ruined a pan’s outer finish because that didn’t occur to me, using it to get carbonisation off the bottom.

      It’s brilliant for raw metal and glass cooktops, though. When I bought my house, the previous owners left a kit for the glass cooktop including the razor tool in your OP. I’m so grateful they did because I wouldn’t have known.

      e: can’t spell